You hear thumping above the ceiling at 2 a.m. Then scratching. Maybe a low chittering sound near the chimney. If that sounds familiar, you are probably searching for how to get raccoon out of house without making things worse for you, your family, or the animal.
Do not rush, do not seal anything yet, and do not try to handle the raccoon yourself. The safest approach is to find out whether babies are present, encourage the raccoon to leave on her own, confirm the space is empty, and only then close the entry point for good.
First, Make Sure It Really Is a Raccoon
Before you do anything, confirm what you are dealing with. Raccoons are nocturnal, so most of the noise happens after dark. Common clues include:
- Heavy thumping or dragging sounds overhead, louder than a squirrel or rat
- Chittering or purring noises, which can mean young are nearby
- Torn insulation, damaged soffits, or lifted roof vents
- A strong, ammonia-like smell and droppings gathered in one spot
That last point matters more than most people realize. Raccoons tend to use the same spot as a toilet, called a latrine, and those droppings can carry a parasite that is dangerous to people. We will come back to that in the cleanup section.
Check for Babies Before You Do Anything Else
This is the step people skip, and it is the one that matters most. In spring and early summer, the raccoon in your attic or chimney is very often a mother with kits. According to Mass Audubon, if raccoons turn up in a chimney between March and June, you likely have a mother and her young, and the babies cannot climb out on their own during the first eight weeks of life.
Cornell Cooperative Extension notes that weaning begins at around eight weeks, and that you should make sure every raccoon has left an area ceiling design (Cornell Cooperative Extension fact sheet). If you hear high-pitched chirping or cries, treat it as a sign that babies are inside.
What to do if there are babies: be patient. If you can tolerate the noise for a few weeks, the mother will usually move her family out once the kits are mobile. If you cannot wait, hire a licensed wildlife professional who can reunite the family humanely rather than separating them.
Make the Space Uncomfortable, Not Dangerous
Raccoons want a dark, quiet, safe den. Take those things away and many will decide to move on. Humane World for Animals’ professional fact sheet recommends encouraging unwanted tenants to leave with a combination of bright lights, loud noises, and strong smells (Humane World for Animals fact sheet). For a raccoon in a fireplace or chimney, Mass Audubon suggests a loud radio and a bright light, and says to install a cap as soon as you know the family has left.
Practical tips:
- Place a battery-powered work light near the den area and leave it on.
- Run a radio tuned to talk radio, since voices tend to work better than music.
- Do it consistently for several nights, not just once.
- Never use smoke, fire, poison, or anything that could injure the animal or start a house fire.
Skip Trap-and-Relocate
It sounds kind, but moving a raccoon somewhere else is usually a bad idea. The professional fact sheet from Humane World for Animals warns that trapping and relocating raccoons usually means death for both the raccoon and her kits. American Humane gives the same advice: do not trap and relocate raccoons, and do not seal off an area until you are certain the raccoon and any babies are gone, because trapped animals can starve (American Humane wildlife fact sheet).
Use a One-Way Door if There Is a Single Entry Point
If the raccoon is getting in through one clear opening, such as a torn vent or a gap at the roofline, a one-way exclusion door is the method wildlife professionals rely on. The raccoon can leave but cannot get back in. The key is that the rest of the house must already be secure, otherwise she will simply find another way in.
Leave the door in place for several days, keep checking for activity, and only remove it once you are confident the space is empty. Never install one when babies might still be inside.
One-way exclusion door installed over a raccoon entry hole
Seal Every Entry Point the Right Way
Once you are sure the house is empty, close it up properly. Cornell’s animal-proofing guidance explains that galvanized hardware cloth comes in quarter-inch and half-inch mesh, and that half-inch is stronger though less flexible (Cornell CALS, Animal Proofing). Oregon State University Extension suggests burying hardware cloth at least 6 inches down and 6 inches out from a building to stop digging under decks and foundations (OSU Extension).
Your checklist:
- Chimney: Install a sturdy cap made of sheet metal and heavy screen. Cornell recommends this to prevent raccoons from taking up residence in chimneys.
- Vents and soffits: Cover with heavy-duty hardware cloth, screwed or stapled in place. Chicken wire is not strong enough.
- Roofline: Replace loose or missing shingles and repair damaged fascia boards.
- Trees: Trim branches that give raccoons a bridge to your repair roof.
One more tip: timing helps. Iowa State University Extension advises doing exclusion work in early winter, before mother raccoons look for birthing spots, because barriers installed in spring or summer can trap a family inside (Iowa State University Extension). That makes autumn and early winter one of the best windows to raccoon-proof your home.
Clean Up Safely (Do Not Skip This)
Raccoon droppings are not just unpleasant. According to the CDC, raccoons are the primary host of Baylisascaris procyonis, a roundworm that can be harmful to people, and infection happens when someone accidentally swallows the eggs (CDC: Raccoon Latrines, Identification and Clean-up). Serious illness is rare, but it can be severe, which is why public health agencies recommend special precautions (Public Health, Seattle & King County).
Key points from those agencies:
- Wear disposable gloves, and an N95-rated respirator if you are working in a confined space like an attic or crawl space.
- Lightly mist the living area with water first to avoid stirring up dust.
- Keep children and pets away until cleanup is finished.
- Bleach and other household disinfectants do not kill roundworm eggs, according to the California Department of Public Health.
- Wash your hands and launder your clothes in hot water afterward.
If the latrine is large, or the insulation is heavily soiled, call a professional who handles wildlife cleanup. It is usually worth the cost.
Safety Rules: Never Handle the Raccoon Yourself
A cornered raccoon can bite or scratch, and raccoons are one of the wildlife species that can carry rabies. The CDC says the best way to avoid rabies is to stay away from wildlife, and advises talking to a healthcare provider about post-exposure treatment if you are bitten or scratched (CDC Vital Signs: Rabies).
Call a professional or your local animal control right away if you see a raccoon that is out in daylight and acting strangely, such as stumbling, seeming unusually friendly, or showing unprovoked aggression. If a person or pet is bitten, wash the wound with soap and water and get medical or veterinary care immediately.
When to Call a Wildlife Professional
DIY works for simple cases, but call a licensed, humane wildlife control company if:
- You know or suspect there are babies
- The raccoon is in a chimney, wall cavity, or hard-to-reach space
- You find a large amount of droppings or contaminated insulation
- The animal looks sick, injured, or aggressive
- You have tried deterrents for a week or more and nothing changed
Ask any company you are considering whether they use one-way doors and exclusion, and whether they offer a repair warranty. Be cautious of anyone who only offers trapping and removal with no sealing work.
How to Keep Raccoons From Coming Back
Exclusion fixes the house. Prevention fixes the yard. The CDC recommends preventing access to food, keeping trash containers tightly closed, and closing off access to attics and basements (CDC: Preventing Raccoon Roundworm). In practice that means:
- Use bins with locking lids, or store them in a garage until collection day
- Bring pet food indoors at night
- Clean up fallen fruit, birdseed, and compost scraps
- Never feed raccoons, even if they look friendly
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to get a raccoon out of a house?
It depends on the situation. A single raccoon with no babies may leave within a few nights of consistent deterrents or a one-way door. If there are kits, expect to wait several weeks until they are old enough to travel.
Is it safe to remove a raccoon myself?
It is safest to avoid direct contact. You can use lights, noise, and exclusion devices without touching the animal, but anything involving handling, trapping, or removing babies is better left to a trained professional.
What time of year is best for raccoon-proofing?
Autumn and early winter, before mothers look for spring nesting sites, is generally the best window according to extension guidance.
Will mothballs or ammonia get rid of raccoons?
Home remedies get repeated online, but they are inconsistent and can be hazardous indoors. Strong smells may add to discomfort, but they work best alongside lights, noise, and proper sealing, not on their own.
Final Thoughts
Knowing how to get raccoon out of house comes down to patience and order of operations: check for babies, encourage her to leave, confirm the space is empty, seal it properly, and clean up with protective gear. Done in that order, you protect your home, your health, and the animal.
